Vintage Celebrity Jewelry: Lucia Moreira Salles

Diamond "String" Ring by JAR, Paris. From the Collection of Lucia Moreira Salles. Photo credit: Sotheby's. Three beautiful rings made headlines in 2009, when together they realized nearly $1.7 million at Sotheby's winter "Magnificent Jewels" sale. All three were made by JAR for one of Brazil's most beloved philanthropists, Lúcia Moreira Salles. The pictured diamond ring features a central diamond of 16.04 carats set within several strings of diamonds set in a platinum mounting. The shank of the ring is also paved entirely in diamonds. Another of the rings features a stunning cabochon Columbian emerald which weighs approximately 27 carats. This glorious stone once belonged to King Farouk of Egypt. Rumor has it that Sra. Salles acquired the stone from rare gems dealer, Pat Saling {cited}. The Brazilian beauty commissioned JAR to design a mounting fit for such a royal stone. Mr. Rosenthal trimmed the stone with a ring of diamonds set in platinum and then mounted it upon a platinum shank also set with diamonds. JAR made an identical diamond-studded platinum mounting for Sra. Salles' sugarloaf cabochon Burmese ruby, which weighs approximately 16.30 carats. Sugarloaf rubies were cut to resemble the distinctly conical shape of refined sugar "loaf" in the early 1900s. While these cones of pure sugar were extremely tall, sugarloaf rubies are usually somewhat squat, yet with a pronounced point. These three gorgeous rings demonstrate Lúcia Moreira Salles's passion for simple elegance. Her complete jewelry collection included several bold pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, and Verdura. Right alongside these commanding pieces were several strands of natural pearls set with diamonds and several classic Cartier wristwatches. Indeed, just as her collection reflects, Sra. Salles effortlessly combined her subtle mystique with bold beauty. As her New York interior decorator, Susan Gutfreund remarked to Women's Wear Daily, "verything was done quietly and in the best taste: The way she dressed, the way she decorated...For me, everything about her was like that. She would wear extraordinary jewels, but it was worn as if it was a piece of costume jewelry." Sra. Salles' got her start as a model in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Her quiet beauty captivated both Valentino and Coco Chanel. To the one she was like a sister, and to the other she was honored with the privileged role of exclusive house model in the early 1960s. In 1986, she set her modeling career aside in order to marry Walter Moreira Salles, a Brazilian politician, banker, and philanthropist renowned for his fundamental role in establishing Brazil's highly successful financial and banking industry. As the wife of a wealthy businessman and politician, Sra. Salles turned her passion and business acumen toward promoting volunteerism in Brazil and around the world. She served two significant Brazilian non-governmental organizations committed to improving the lives of men, women, and children. As a prominent organizer of Riovoluntario's 'Projecto Brasileirinho,' Sra. Salles effectively gained national and global recognition for the project, which is dedicated to improving the quality of daycare for children in Brazil. Sra. Salles was also a founding member of Synergos' Global Philanthropists Circle. Her partnership with Synergos enabled them to effectively "bridge social and economic divides to reduce poverty and increase equity around the world" {cited}. Whether in the boardroom or on the runway, Lúcia Moreira Salles made lifelong friends. Her remarkable style and fluid elegance attracted their eyes, though it was her congenial personality and her loyal friendship that won their hearts. "Lúcia will be missed for her wisdom, her guidance, and for the passion she held for helping children, particularly in Brazil," remarked Robert H. Dunn, president of Synergos {cited}. In January of 2009, Lúcia Moreira Salles succumbed to cancer "after a courageous struggle" {cited}. Her jewels may have scattered to the four winds following their sale that December, but her legacy lives on in the hearts of those she touched.