The Public Appearances of Wallis Simpson's Cartier Cross Bracelet

Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, poses for her wedding, June 3, 1937. Photo Cecil Beaton Studio Archives at Sotheby's. Custom made by Cartier, this celebrated cross bracelet has been around the world, its fame keeping pace with the notoriety of its owner, Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor. Made between 1934 and 1944, the nine Latin crosses clipped to the bracelet represent a milestone event in the lives of one of the twentieth century's most famous lovers, Mrs. Simpson and Prince Edward, the one-time King of England,  who chose the woman he loved over the throne of an empire. The bracelet made its first public appearance in the summer of 1936, aboard the cruise ship Nahlin, which carried King Edward VIII, Wallis Simpson, and a small company of the King's intimate friends on a journey through the Adriatic Sea. Gracing the wrist of one of America's most famous socialites, the crosses on the bracelet, which bore curious resemblance to three crosses which dangled from a chain around the King's neck, raised international eyebrows and set gossiping tongues wagging as to the true nature of Mrs. Simpson's relationship to King Edward VIII. "We...were greeted by the young King radiant in health, wearing...two crucifixes on a chain around his neck..." wrote Lady Diana Cooper. According to Sotheby's, Lady Cooper, who was on board the cruise ship that summer, recalled noticing the necklace and the bracelet worn by the man and woman whose bold decisions in just a few short months would rock a nation and set this bracelet on its famous journey through time. Each of the nine crosses on the bracelet, as well as the three crosses worn by the King, carry inscriptions that reveal a love story between a married woman and a man groomed to rule a nation. There is no doubt that Mrs. Wallis Simpson wore this bracelet on many occasions. However, its next documented appearance would be on June 3, 1937, the day the two lovers said their vows in a very private ceremony at the Chateau de Cande in the Loire Valley. During the tumultuous year that followed the summer cruise of 1936 and preceded the couple's union in 1937, the American courts had granted a divorce between Bessie Wallis Simpson and Ernest Simpson. That same year, England lost her King. On December 11, 1936, King Edward VIII abdicated his throne in a moving speech and was exiled to Paris with the former Mrs. Simpson. Their wedding, according to the Duchess, "was a supremely happy moment," and the whole affair was captured on film by Cecil Beaton. In the above photo, taken on that sunny day in June, Wallis wears Mainbocher--a crepe dress in soft gray-blue (known forever after as "Wallis Blue"), a large flower brooch, diminutive earrings, and two bracelets, one of which is the famed Cartier cross brooch. A new cross was added on this day, inscribed "Our Marriage Cross Wallis 3.VI.37 David*." This would be the seventh cross added to the bracelet since 1934. Their union was deeply frowned upon by the Royal Family, and upon reportedly receiving a $500,000 marriage settlement and an annual stipend of $100,000 each from the Crown, the couple was exiled to Paris, where they swiftly made a new life for themselves. In the ensuing years, the cross bracelet was completed, with the final cross added in 1944, a get well present to Wallis from her husband. Many pictures taken of the Duchess during the 1930s and beyond feature a glimpse of the elegant bracelet. At some point, she seems to have stopped wearing it so frequently, but it remained in her possession until the day of her death in 1986. One year later, the bracelet embarked upon a new leg of its journey. According to The Telegraph, in a landmark auction of the Duchess's estate at Sotheby's in 1987, millionaire Wafiq Said purchased the bracelet and at least 19 other pieces of jewelry given to Wallis by her husband. In December 2010, the bracelet once more found its way to the auction block at Sotheby's, where it was purchased for a sum of 600,000 pounds. A reference is made by the Jewellery Editor that Cartier entrusted the bracelet to their Parisian workshops for restoration. Whether Cartier purchased the jewel at auction is up for debate. However, they did purchase another of the 20 jewels offered in that sale, the Duchess's favorite flamingo brooch, which they made for her in 1940. A replica of the bracelet was made by Cartier for the 2011 release of Madonna's W.E. Throughout the film, the character of Wallis Simpson, played by Amanda Riseborough, discovers several of the gem-encrusted crosses in unexpected places, such as her teacup. Sadly, the bracelet was lost in the Mediterranean Sea during filming. Though this seems a great loss, Cartier already planned to destroy the bracelet, along with the other replicas they made for the film, in order to preserve the value of the originals. Where do you suppose the Duchess's Cartier Cross Bracelet will make its next appearance?

*King Edward VIII was called David by his family and closest friends.