JAR Poppy Brooch, 1982. Diamond, tourmalines, and gold. Private collection. Photograph by Katharina Faerber. Courtesy of JAR, Paris. Used with permission.
by Angela Magnotti Andrews
Joel Arthur Rosenthal, called JAR by clients, friends, press, and strangers, has so distinguished himself in the artistry of jewels that on November 20, 2013, The Met unveiled their first retrospective featuring a living jewelry artist:
Jewels by JAR.
The show features in excess of 400 exquisite jewels on loan from the Louvres's Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the House of JAR, and 145 of JAR's faithful patrons. The mesmerizing display represents more than 35 years devoted to the mysteries of color, the pursuit of uncommon gemstones, and the artful rendering of Joel Arthur Rosenthal's brilliant imagination.
Visitors to the exhibit begin at the threshold of the darkened Helen and Milton A. Kimmelman Gallery (#913), located in The Met's Modern and Contemporary Art Department. The only source of light smolders from within the recessed cases lining both walls and those set within the free-standing vitrines which form a labyrinth of sorts throughout the room. Set against the "warm glow" of their "blazing dark salmon" velvet backgrounds, the "individual pieces pop from the darkness. They glitter, sparkle, flicker" {cited: 8, 1, & 2}.
Though JAR is notoriously press-shy, he has cooperated fully with museum staff to orchestrate a tantalizing exhibition of some of the most exquisite jewels of the contemporary age. As Jennifer Russell, associate director for exhibitions at The Met, relates, "Joel is passionate, he's opinionated, he has a very definite point of view about almost everything...But he listens too, and it's been a wonderful dialogue in deciding how things should be arranged..." {2}. This particular show is one of great importance.
Born in the Bronx in 1943, Mr. Rosenthal spent countless hours absorbing the intricacies of the metals and minerals galleries at The Met and New York's Natural History Museum {3}. Having come full circle in a way, the designer recognizes the magnitude of this event. For all the help he's offered to the staff, the humble artist remains somewhat detached from the whole thing. This writer credits this detachment to a humility born out of a life lived from passion and individuality, rather than some kind of snobbish distaste for fanfare. As he says himself, "I'm uncomfortable with being so public. Instead I see a little boy, walking up the steps of that enormous building, to see what was inside" {3}. Whether it is himself he sees in the past, or another boy who will soon set foot in the hallowed halls is not for me to interpret.
It could even be that his vision included both. True to form, The Met continues to offer the same gift it once offered the small boy who began life as just Joel. As he found out, anyone young or old who wishes to expand their imagination need only step through the portico of this great hall of wonders. And for a limited time, that person has the privilege of seeing the now-in-the-present evidence of just where such an expansion might lead.
Jewels by JAR at The Met is truly an unprecedented opportunity for jewelry enthusiasts. This is the first and only time that these pieces will be on display in America during JAR's lifetime. The gems he creates are about as reclusive as their maker, usually seen only at private dinner parties held by the international elite or at the occasional auction, where they yield more than five times their original sales prices. JAR does not advertise, and he has only exhibited three times during his 35-year career. He does have plans for one last show, his "swan song," which he plans to host "in Venice, to be held in two years' time" {3}.
In light of this landmark event, we encourage our New York readers, or those who will be visiting New York between now and March 9, 2014, to include
Jewels by JAR at The Met at the top of your must-see list. As Natalie Bohs remarks, "the extraordinary artistry and unparalleled level of craftsmanship of JAR's jewelry is best seen with your own eyes." For more information, we invite you to visit
The Met's website.
To ensure that your experience is is top-notch, we recommend a thorough reading of
Christine Webb's fantastic first-hand review of the show before you go. She offers some very helpful tips for enriching your visit.
Bibliography
- Bohs, Natalie. "Highlights from the 'Jewels by JAR' Exhibit at The Met," Jewels du Jour Blog, November 24, 2013. http://www.jewelsdujour.com/2013/11/highlights-from-jewels-by-jar-exhibit-at-the-met/.
- DeMarco, Anthony. "A First Look Of 'Jewels By Jar' Exhibition at The Met Museum," Forbes, November 19, 2013. http://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonydemarco/2013/11/19/all-that-glitters-is-jewels-by-jar-at-the-met/.
- Friedman, Vanessa. "Lunch with the FT: Joel Arthur Rosenthal." Financial Times, November 1, 2013. http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/63cae7d8-414f-11e3-9073-00144feabdc0.html#axzz2l7RPF5fG.
- Metropolitan Museum of Art, The. "Gallery 913." Accessed December 6, 2013. http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/galleries/modern-and-contemporary-art/913.
- Metropolitan Museum of Art, The. "Jewels by JAR, November 20, 2013-March 9, 2014." Accessed December 6, 2013. http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2013/jewels-by-jar.
- Metropolitan Museum of Art, The. "News Release: Over 400 Pieces by Renowned Jewelry Designer JAR on View at Metropolitan Museum Beginning November 20." Last modified November 14, 2013.
- Murg, Stephanie. "From Paris, with Gems: 'Jewels By JAR' Dazzles at the Metropolitan Museum of Art," Unbeige, November 20, 2013. https://www.mediabistro.com/unbeige/from-paris-with-gems-jewels-by-jar-dazzles-at-the-metropolitan-museum-of-art_b32365.
- Webb, Christine. "JAR-Revisited!" Joia Gems, November 25, 2013. http://joiagems.blogspot.com/2013/11/jar-revisited.html#more.
