History & Symbolism of the Buttercup Setting

  The buttercup setting dates back to Victorian times. A variation of the prong setting, its prongs emerge from the mounting as u-shaped scallops. The effect epitomizes the floral fascination of the Victorian era. Jewelry historians also refer to this setting as the Belcher setting.  

The Buttercup Setting

Buttercup rings feature prongs which are carved directly into the mounting. As a result, the gemstone sits securely, flush with the top of the ring. (source) Not only does this provide excellent security for the stone, but the u-shaped curves hugging the stone give the appearance of a jeweled buttercup flower.    

Why Experts Call It a Belcher Setting

The buttercup setting is also known as the Belcher setting. Some jewelry references claim that the setting was named after an American jeweler named Thomas Belcher. I was unable to find any notable jewelers with this name. What I did discover is that the setting was likely named after a famous English boxing champion. You heard that correctly, a bare-knuckle fighter, James "Jem" Belcher, who held the championship title between 1800 and 1805. (source) During his brief reign, he distinguished himself not only as an excellent fighter, but also as an English dandy. The wealthy men who attended his fights often paraded him around to the highest society events of the day. (source) His distinctive style included a signature blue and white neckerchief, a style which took off. This type of men's scarf, worn around the neck and often secured with a ring, came to be called a Belcher. The ring became known as a Belcher ring. (source) For reasons I have not been able to ascertain, this scarf ring became closely associated with this gorgeous Victorian ring setting. Incidentally, Jem had a brother name Tom, who was also a famous boxer. Perhaps this is where the rumors about an American jeweler named Thomas Belcher got started.    

Symbolism of the Buttercup

The Victorian infatuation with flowers and their meanings may have influenced the ubiquitous use of the buttercup setting for so many of their rings. It's hard to know for sure, as the meaning of buttercups at that time were far from the rosy cheerfulness they exude today. Indeed, Victorians believed buttercups signified childish impetuousness, as well as ingratitude. (source) Over the years, however, the buttercup has come to symbolize the more joyous aspects of childhood. Youthfulness, playfulness, and good cheer, as well as purity, joy, happiness, and friendship. (source) It also sends a message of simplicity, enjoyment of the moment, and lightheartedness. (source) This type of cheerful bliss is, of course, best when shared. Indeed, giving a gift of buttercups (or a ring set in the buttercup setting) proves an act of goodwill and infinite kindness. These light and cheery feelings make the buttercup setting one of the most charming and beautiful settings available. No wonder the Victorians favored them so! ~Angela Magnotti Andrews