History + Characteristics of Princess Cut Diamonds

F/VS1 Princess Cut Diamond Engagement Ring. Photo © EraGem by Angela Magnotti Andrews This stunning estate Princess Cut diamond engagement ring is crafted of solid 14k white gold. The central stone is an EGL-certified 1.26-carat Princess Cut diamond which grades F in color and VS1 in clarity. Flanked by a single Princess Cut diamond on either side, the central stone rests in a floating halo of Round Brilliant diamonds atop a diamond-encrusted gallery and shoulders. And, oh, how it sparkles! A Princess Cut diamond is one of the most scintillating, fiery diamond cuts available on the market today. The cut features a series of unique chevron-shaped pavilion facets paired with table facets cut similar to a round brilliant, for a total of either 57 or 76 facets. Its unique pyramid shape and extra facets create greater light dispersion than in any other square-shaped diamond, which in turn conceals subtle inclusions, allowing cutters to preserve a greater portion of the diamond rough. This cut is one of the only mixed brilliant cuts which allows for up to 80% retention of the rough. Considered a mixed cut, the Princess Cut made its debut in 1979. The Princess Cut traces its origins back to the Barion Cut, patented in 1971 by its creator Basil Watermeyer, a South African diamond cutter who named the cut after himself and his wife, Marion. The 'Barion Cut' features 81 facets which present a characteristic cross pattern through the table and crescent-shaped facets on the pavilion. It is said to have a 4-fold mirror-image symmetry {1}. In the same year that Mr. Watermeyer patented the Barion Cut, Apard Nagy patented his version of the square cut diamond, the 'Profile Cut'. The Profile Cut appeared flatter than today's Princess Cuts, and was fashioned with 58 facets. Mr. Nagy is reported to have designed the cut in 1961. The popularity of this cut increased with its distribution in Israel by Israel Itzkowitz in the 1970s. {6}. In 1979, Ambar Diamonds began distributing the 'Quadrillion'. The Quadrillion was similar to the Barion Cut, only with 49 facets. Ambar Diamonds trademarked the Quadrillion in 1980. Now that these patents are beginning to expire, new ones are cropping up. The most recent patent, dated February 12, 2013, was awarded to Robert Forster and Vinubhai G. Dhanani, who invented a design for a Princess Cut featuring 129 facets {4}. From the top, a Princess Cut diamond appears square, sometimes slightly rectangular. Most designs sport the sharp French corners, though some feature rounded corners. From the side, a Princess Cut diamond resembles an inverted pyramid. A four-prong setting typically holds the diamond at each corner, and the four sides appear beveled. Because the Princess Cut is patented, if the ratio is larger than 1.05, it will be designated as a Square Modified Brilliant (its generic name) on grading certificates {2}. The overall appearance of a Princess Cut diamond is clean and modern. Tiffany's describes Princess Cut Diamonds as "both elegant and dramatic," making them the perfect choice for today's chic modern bride.

Notes

1. All About Gemstones. "Diamonds: Patented Signature Diamond Cuts." Accessed March 7, 2014. http://www.allaboutgemstones.com/patented_diamond_cuts.html..
2. "Diamond Cuts,"Gesner Estate Jewelry Blog, June 12, 2013.
3. Tiffany & Co. "Princess Cut." Accessed March 7, 2014. http://www.tiffany.com/Engagement/item.aspx?GroupSku=GRP10027&selectedSku=24163296.
4. United States Patent and Trademark Office. "United States Design Patent, Forster et. al., Patent No. US D675,954S." Date of Patent: Feb. 12, 2013.
5. Wikipedia. "Diamond Cut: Mixed Cuts." Accessed March 7, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond_cut#Modified_brilliants.
6. Wikipedia. "Princess Cut." Accessed March 7, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_cut.