History & Characteristics of Emerald Cut

This stunning vintage aquamarine cocktail ring is fashioned out of solid platinum  and features 6 baguette cut diamond accent stones. The 27 carat aquamarine gemstone rests snugly between four thick prongs, and its pristine Emerald Cut lends it an aura of regal majesty. The Emerald Cut has long been employed to enhance the richness of colored gemstones. The large table and deep pavilion prominent in an emerald-cut stone draw the light and the eye inward, deepening and intensifying the color to mesmerizing effect. The Emerald Cut draws its name from the stone most cut in this rectangular shape--the viridian dream, emerald. The modern Emerald Cut has 58 facets, 25 on the Pavilion, 25 on the Crown, and 8 on the Girdle, with three rows of top steps and three rows of bottom steps. This cut finds its origins in the very first diamond cuts. Being that diamonds are the hardest substance on earth, polishing and cutting were nearly impossible in ancient times. It wasn't until the 13th century that diamonds were worn in cut form, when gem cutters discovered that diamonds could be polished and cut using their own dust. Their early attempts, made by hand, resulted in an even, pointed octahedron called a "point" cut, which remained the only cut available for diamonds for over 1000 years. The first new cut emerged in the early 1400s, when cutters began slicing off the rounded surface. The flat surface was called a table, and the new cut was called a Table Cut. From here, the Old Single/Old Eight cut emerged as cutters began cleaving off the four corners. These first facets of a diamond, unfortunately, failed to release any of the stone's lustrous scintillation or fire. Further experimentation led to the addition of a culet facet to the bottom of the stone. These large facets were effective in reflecting the light back through the diamond, thereby increasing its brightness. So popular were the table cuts that most of the earlier point-cut stones were converted to table cuts during the Renaissance period. Eventually, eight more facets further modified the Table Cut. These narrow facets were added along each edge of the table and the pavilion to further enhance a diamond's brilliance. These new cuts were called Step or Trap Cuts and are still used by modern gem cutters. The Step Cut allows for many polygonal shapes, including square, rectangle, kite, or lozenge. While the Step Cut resembles the Emerald Cut, the first follows no set pattern or design. The shape of the rough stone usually dictates the position and placement of the facets, allowing cutters to maximize the weight of the stone. Typically, the resulting gems were heavy in the crown with relatively small tables. The Emerald Cut was standardized right around 1940 and has nearly replaced the Step Cut in diamond cutting, except when a non-rectangular polygonal shape is desired. Diamond cutters realized that by executing a perfect Emerald Cut, particularly by faceting off the points of the pavilion, they could bring more fire into their diamonds {1}. For large colored gemstones and high-quality diamonds, the Emerald Cut is a beautiful choice. If you're choosing an emerald-cut diamond, however, you'll want to consider investing in a higher color grade, as the cut will emphasize any inherent color in the stone. Furthermore, you'll want to choose a diamond with a higher clarity grade, as the large table facet will emphasize any visible inclusions in the heart of the stone.

Notes

1. Klein, Glenn. Faceting History: Cutting Diamonds and Colored Stones. Bloomington, IN: Xlibris, 2005.