Designer Spotlight: Ritani

A gorgeous 1.3-carat oval-cut natural blue sapphire rests regally above a double band replete with micro-set natural white diamonds. Upon close inspection, the diamonds set in micro-pavè's characteristic honeycomb pattern reflect a mesmerizing brilliance. This stunning designer bridal set belongs to Ritani's "Endless Love" collection. The Endless Love collection has become synonymous with Ritani's mastery of the micro-pavè technique. Rings from this collection feature dynamic central stones set in intricate bands of white gold, palladium, or platinum. Each band is paved entirely in tiny white micro-set diamonds along the entire rim of the band. While micro-pavè is a derivative of the ancient pavè setting, it requires a higher level of precision than its namesake. Where pavè works with varying sizes of diamonds, micro-pavè demands minuscule diamonds of uniform size, usually between 0.7 and 1.2mm. These tiny stones are tilted at an angle of 60 or 90 degrees and set in at least two, often more, interlocking rows. The resultant honeycomb pattern accounts for the velvety texture that catches the light in the same fluid way that rich fabrics do. It is a contemporary technique, made available no earlier than the mid-1970s, when machine-cutting allowed for micro-cut stones. At the point of its inception, the task of micro-setting was laborious and time-consuming. Very few gem-setters took the time to perfect the skills required. Therefore, micro-pavè jewelry was exclusive and expensive. With the onset of computer-aided gem setting, this beautiful technique is now bountiful in the market. However, if you desire the fluid artistry that is possible with authentic micro-pavè, then you will want to be alert to the hallmarks of true micro-set stones {1}:

1. Stones will be uniform in size and shape and arranged in perfect rows.
2. Stones will be set densely together without separations between the rows.
3. The honeycomb pattern will be uniform and unbroken.
4. The paved surface will be smooth to the touch and curved.
5. The beads of metal holding the stones in pace will be even and precise, without excess metal encroaching upon the stones.
6. The entire surface texture will appear smooth and crystal clear.

Many low-end manufacturers have found ways to 'cut corners' on the process and deliver machine-made jewelry with a similar effect. Alas, these knock-offs are rife with flaws. When you buy a Ritani micro-pavè ring, you can rest assured that you're investing in the best. Not only have they mastered the intricacies of the craft, the New York-based design firm has made a name for themselves by creating extraordinary bridal jewelry infused with "timeless appeal and remarkable beauty" {2}. Notes 1. Leon Mege, "Micro Pavè" http://www.leonmege.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&layout=item&id=111. 2. Harper's Bazaar, September 2005, p. 70.