Bernd Munsteiner, "Father of the Fantasy Cut"

Bernd Munsteiner Cut Citrine Bracelet. Photo ©2018 EraGem Jewelry.   Bernd Munsteiner apprenticed with his father in Idar-Oberstein, Germany. Idar-Oberstein remains to this day a center for gem cutting and carving. Established during the late Medieval period, Idar-Oberstein is particularly known for its Renaissance-style cameo cuts. This style of cameo cutting remained the same for over 500 years. Until Bernd Munsteiner turned the traditions upside down, literally.

Munsteiner's Beginnings

In the 1950s, Munsteiner began his apprenticeship with his father to learn the family trade. In 1962, he enrolled in the School of Design in Phorzheim. While in school, he continued to learn conventional lapidary skills. However, he also studied painting, metal sculpting, and jewelry design. In 1966, he graduated as a designer of precious stones and jewelry. A true child of the 1960s, Bernd Munsteiner failed to find the allure in conforming to tradition. For the first time in 500 years, he succeeded in challenging the carving community. Of course, his new approach to cameo carving was not well received, but he persisted in his avant-garde methods.

Fantasy Cuts

Rather than carving on the top of the stones, he focused his skilled efforts on the back of the stones. Faceting negative cuts on the bottoms and backsides of semiprecious stones, he became one of the first gem cutters to establish the modern era of lapidary art. While the traditionalists frowned at his defiance, international buyers clamored for what would come to be called Fantasy Cut gemstones. In 1973, he established Munsteiner Atelier in Stipshausen, Germany. His reputation grew, as he continued to turn the tables on traditional gem cutting. Often he left parts of a gem raw to create contrast with other portions that he polished and faceted. He frequently chose irregular stones which imbued his finished pieces with geometrical, abstract shape. For this reason, he earned the moniker the "Picasso of Gems." As his career blossomed, he began working with larger and larger stones. Today, savvy collectors remain on the lookout for his gemstone sculptures and his jewels. Esteemed museums around the world display his works with pride. And jewelry experts the world over seek to establish Munsteiner's work in the annals of history.

A Unique Opportunity

This particular piece, an original Munsteiner bracelet, features a deep orange-brown citrine faceted in the artist's signature fantasy style. Its dimensional geometrical shape reverberates in the 18k gold band, which has a hinged clasp that evokes sensual modernity. It pleases us to invite you to visit our Bellevue showroom to see this and several other Bernd Munsteiner works in person. Certainly, this represents a unique and rare opportunity for you to touch modern history, to feel its essence upon your skin. Please don't hesitate to reach out and make an appointment to visit us soon.