Bernard K. Passman - The Black Coral King

Bernard Passman Princess Bracelet Black Coral Diamond Platinum. Photo ©2018 EraGem Jewelry.   This Bernard Passman princess bracelet demonstrates the elegance of the Passman Classic line. It features eight stations of black coral and diamonds, set in platinum.  

Bernard Passman

Bernard Passman discovered his talent for carving during his passage home from the Philippines at the end of World War II. Boredom prompted him to upturn a K Ration crate, into the bottom of which he carved a beautiful ballerina. After returning home, Passman he settled in Maryland, where he worked as a stockbroker. Later he moved to Florida, where he established himself as a successful real estate developer. After many years in business, he started making more and more time to express himself creatively. Eventually, he opened an art gallery where he showcased his distinctive works in exotic woods, clay, metals, and light.  

Grand Cayman Black Coral

In 1974, Passman moved his family to Grand Cayman. As word spread around the island about a new American artist on the island, visitors began showing up to welcome him. One of those visitors brought him a paper bag full of tortoise shell and dull grey twigs. Bernard was perplexed, asking what he should do with them. The islander told him he ought to carve them. So he did. He discovered that when this species of black coral, Antipatharia, is carved and polished it shines with an elegant beauty that naturally pairs with diamonds and other precious stones. In 1975, Bernard Passman opened a retail store where he frequently sold out of his creations by noon on the days when the cruise ships stopped off on Grand Cayman. He spent the next 30 days, staying up past midnight to create new pieces to sell the next time the tourists came to shop.  

The King of Coral

Bernard became known as The King of Coral, and his pieces and principles stand the test of time today and beyond. In all his years working with black coral, he never strayed from his environmental principles. His suppliers had to promise they only harvested pieces of coral that had broken off from the living coral naturally. Today, all black coral species are protected under strict trade regulations. The rules governing today's trade agreements are similar to those followed innately by Bernard Passman for all the years he carved the beautiful organic materials. Of course, illegal trading in black coral runs rampant, particularly in the islands. Therefore, it is essential that you purchase black coral jewelry only from reputable designers and/or jewelry stores. This ensures that you are not supporting further depletion of one of the ocean's most valuable resources.  

The Legacy Continues

Sadly, in 2007, at the age of 91, Bernard Passman passed away. As a result, his galleries began to close and his pieces became even more collectible. Today, only a handful of artisans achieved the skill and craftsmanship mastered by Bernard Passman. Mike Tope, who learned at the bench with Passman, continues to carve in black coral and make beautiful jewelry. He and his wife continue to provide services to those who have Passman jewels that are in need of repair or maintenance. Also, in 2014, Glyptica, Inc. renewed Passman's design licenses. Sometime between then and now, Brindle & Figg became the exclusive retailer of new Passman pieces. I've reached out to Brindle & Figg for help to bridge this gap. As soon as I hear back, I'll update this article to reflect the new information. New Passman pieces are available on the market exclusively through Brindle & Figg. In keeping with Bernard's principles, artisan craftsmen make every piece by hand using Passman's techniques. Brindle & Figg complies with international trade regulations by harvesting the black coral sustainably and responsibly. Of course, it is our hope that before you reach for something new, you'll consider purchasing a piece of actual history. It is our pleasure to offer you the chance to own this Passman Princess Bracelet. Bernard personally handcarved this well-loved bracelet in his studio before he passed away. Give us a call to begin (or augment) your Passman collection today.