This Jeweled Waltham Ladies Wristwatch is a Relic of American History

Capture the Essence! of American Watchmaking with this 1920s Art Deco Waltham Watch. Photo ©2014 EraGem Jewelry. by Angela Magnotti Andrews This gorgeous Art Deco Waltham ladies wristwatch has a gorgeous 18k white gold case which is bead set with 38 single-cut diamonds along the edges. Its interior, both above and below the face, is channel set with 12 Old European Cut diamonds, while 6 calibre-cut natural blue sapphires add a distinctive sophistication to the overall design. The band is fashioned out of 18k white gold mesh, and the face is decorated in black Arabic numerals with blue steel hands. On the back an inscription reads "Mrs F.S. Dean Atlanta, GA".

The Movement

The outside of this watch, with its clear declaration of original ownership, tells a distinctive story, one worth looking into at some point. However, it is the story that the inner movement has to tell that this writer is most interested in today. The movement is the heart of a mechanical clock or watch. It houses all the moving parts that keep accurate time. The movement in this watch has 17 jewel bearings adjusted to 5 positions (or pairs), and those jewels are likely set in yellow gold. According to Waltham's records, this movement probably has a gold center wheel and an entirely gold train. Its balance wheel is likely made with gold balance screws and two pairs of gold mean-time screws. Its balance staff features the finest of pivots made in the early 1900s, and likely has two oil grooves {cited}.

Waltham Watch Movements

The movement in this wristwatch is stamped with the name of its maker, Waltham, and a serial number, 23158481. It is this serial number that grants us access to details about this watch that demonstrate its clear distinction among antique wristwatches. Here's what we know about Waltham watch movements in general:

1. All genuine Waltham movements are stamped with a serial number and the company's name (which varies according to the year the watch was made).
2. Waltham went through a number of mergers and transitions in its 100+ years as a company, so the name engraved on the movement provides evidence as to the year in which it was made.
3. These serial numbers correspond to a detailed record which has been transferred from written ledgers kept by the company into a digital database.
4. When the serial number is known, it is possible to determine a two-year period in which the watch was made.
5. Waltham watches made between 1850 and 1957 represent the top of the line in American watches.

This Waltham Watch Movement

Since we have the serial number for this Waltham watch movement, we can be sure of the following:

1. It was made between 1919 and 1920.
2. Between 1907 and 1923, the official name for the maker of this watch was Waltham Watch Co., based in Waltham, Massachusetts.
3. Waltham Watch Co. never made cases, though they did manufacture the faces and hands for their watches.
4. Waltham Watch Co. sold their watch movements and parts to dealers and repairmen wholesale, so this watch movement was sold, likely to Mr. F.S. Dean of Atlanta, GA, by a third-party dealer, who likely sold the case and movement together.
5. This watch represents a significant historical milestone in American watchmaking.

American Watchmaking

Watches were a hot commodity in America during the early 1900s, and wristwatches were just coming into high fashion for ladies, replacing the dainty pendant watches of the late 1800s. Waltham Watch Co., as it was called in 1920, had established itself as the leader in pocket watches, and for nearly 70 years the railroad industry in America and England used Waltham watches exclusively. Wristwatches were a new field, one that in the end would prove to be too different from pocket watches for Waltham to sustain their manufacture.

A Relic of American History

However, at the dawn of the 20th century, the Waltham Watch Co. stood above the rest as a pioneer in this industry. They were the first in the world to use machines to manufacture the complete mechanism for clocks and watches, and they were the first in the industry to use what is called the interchangeable system. Prior to this time, this system of mass-producing every aspect of a complex mechanism using machines was used primarily in the arms industries of the American government. The purpose of this system was to allow for easy repair and replacement of damaged parts without having to retool the entire mechanism. It was a risky endeavor, since if only one part is off in a mechanical watch, the whole thing is a bust. Prior to 1850, no one had attempted to use machines to mass-produce such intricate mechanisms, and the pioneers at Waltham would revolutionize not only the watch industry, but also the automotive and other technical industries of that time. Given Waltham Watch Co.'s supreme popularity and distinguished reputation, it is highly unlikely that this watch movement sat on the shelf for more than 6 months after the time of its manufacture. That it was likely purchased brand new for a high-society lady in Georgia at the dawn of the 1920s demonstrates that this watch is not only a beautiful accessory, but a relic of American history.