Clarity: One of the 4Cs of Diamond Quality

When discussing diamond quality, Clarity refers to the presence (or absence) of internal (inclusions) and external imperfections (blemishes) in a diamond. The formation of diamonds takes place deep within the earth, where tremendous heat and pressure act upon carbon atoms to create the luminous wonders that we call diamonds. Once these diamonds are formed, they are violently forced to the surface by volcanic activity. As you might imagine, the bedlam surrounding this process leads to all manner of possible imperfections (collectively called inclusions) within any one given diamond. In an effort to standardize the measurement of the internal structure of diamonds industry-wide, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) developed the Clarity Scale, which allows expert graders to determine, measure, and plot the presence of an individual diamond's inclusions. Under 10x loupe magnification, an expert diamond grader examines diamonds in a light-controlled environment. These experts search for a number of different inclusions.

The Most Common Diamond Inclusions*

• Bruise: A chip on the surface of a diamond that may include root-like feathers radiating into the diamond
• Cavity: An opening or depression in the surface of a diamond
• Chip: A shallow nick in the surface of a diamond
• Cloud: A tight group of Pinpoint inclusions
• Crystal: Colored or colorless mineral deposit(s) found inside the diamond (Crystal inclusions may appear black in overhead lighting)
• Extra Facet: Any facet which is not a part of the shape's standard cut
• Feather: A fracture which resembles a feather with fine lines radiating from it (Feathers typically appear white or transparent)
• Natural: Small remains of unpolished original rough, typically found on the girdle
• Needle: A very fine, elongated fracture similar to a Feather, but without the radiating lines
• Pinpoint: A very small embedded Crystal, often whitish in color
• Twinning Wisp: A flat ribbon of Pinpoints or Clouds

Once every flaw detectable at 10x magnification has been identified, measured, and plotted on a graph, the diamond is given a grade ranging between Flawless and Included. The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale includes eleven points distributed across six main categories.

GIA Diamond Clarity Scale*

1. FL = Flawless: A Flawless diamond has no visible inclusions (internal imperfections) or blemishes (external imperfections) under 10x loupe magnification. Diamonds rated FL are extremely rare. Less than 1 in 5000 gemstone-quality diamonds qualify as FL.
2. IF = Internally Flawless: An Internally Flawless diamond has no inclusions (internal flaws), but does have some blemishes (external) visible under 10x loupe magnification. Less than 3% of gemstone-quality diamonds qualify as IF. FL and IF diamonds will appear identical until viewed under 10x magnification.
3. VVS = Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions (internal and/or external) are present, but invisible to the naked eye and difficult for even a skilled grader to see under 10x loupe magnification.
   1. VVS1: Inclusions are usually only visible from the pavilion.
   2. VVS2: Inclusions are visible from the crown.
4. VS = Very Slightly Included: A Very Slightly Included diamond has minor inclusions (internal/external) which are clearly visible under 10x loupe magnification, but these inclusions are not visible to the naked eye.
   1. VS1: Inclusions are more noticeable than in a VVS2 diamond, but less noticeable than in a VS2 diamond. It could mean that the inclusions are slightly smaller or more widely spaced apart than in a VS2 diamond. It also could be that the inclusions are better hidden within the diamond's cut or shape than in a VS2 diamond.
   2. VS2: Inclusions are more noticeable than in a VS1 diamond. These inclusions could be slightly larger, or there might be more of them than in a VS1 diamond.
5. SI = Slightly Included: Inclusions are easily detected by a skilled grader under 10x loupe magnification.
   1. SI1: Flaws in an SI1 diamond typically remain invisible to the naked eye, but under magnification there may be a fair number of small imperfections, or perhaps one or two large imperfections.
   2. SI2: Inclusions in an SI2 diamond are usually visible to the naked eye, but only under close inspection.
6. I = Included: Inclusions are obvious under 10x loupe magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.
   1. I1: Inclusions in an I1 diamond are almost always visible to the naked eye.
   2. I2: Diamonds in the I2 category have pronounced inclusions which will affect transparency and brilliance, though they may not compromise the stone's durability.
   3. I3: Diamonds in the I3 category have pronounced inclusions which affect transparency and brilliance and may even affect the diamond's structural integrity and durability.

Leeway for Interested Buyers

As you can see from these definitions, until you get into the Included (I1-I3) category, very few of the flaws noted on a GIA grading report would seriously impede a diamond's visible beauty. Clarity is not a measure of how beautiful a diamond is or even how much fire, scintillation, or brilliance it produces. Therefore, it provides a lot of leeway for interested buyers. However, for those looking to make a financial investment, it is worth spending more to choose a diamond with a high grade on every one of the 4Cs. Since most F and IF diamonds also have tremendous provenance, these are the best choices for high-return investments. Diamonds without provenance, but with high grades in Cut, Color, and Clarity can be extremely wise investments, as well. However, it is wise to consult with a diamond expert or appraiser who knows the investment potential of diamonds before finalizing any purchases. For those looking to purchase a diamond for an engagement ring, choosing a lower grade on Clarity may afford the opportunity to choose a higher grade on Cut or Color, both of which are far more important in determining a diamond's overall brilliance to the casual observer. When choosing an engagement ring, the beauty of the diamond is typically more important than the market value of the stone.

Differences in Price

The difference in price between a VVS1 and VVS2 diamond can be markedly drastic. This is even truer when dropping into the SI category. However, most Slightly Included diamonds, unless compared side by side with diamonds of a higher grade, will appear nearly as beautiful to the casual observer as a Very Slightly or even a Very, Very Slightly Included diamond, while the price should be significantly different across these grades, depending on Color, Cut, and Carat Weight. If size is more important to you than internal perfection, then adjusting to a lower Clarity grade in order to purchase a larger diamond would be completely reasonable. In almost every circumstance, you will want to spend more for a higher Cut Grade. A diamond's Cut has a far more serious impact on the way a diamond reflects light than Clarity does, unless we're talking about I1-I3 diamonds. Therefore, moving a bit lower, sometimes even significantly lower, on the Clarity scale affords an opportunity to save money while choosing a diamond with a higher Cut grade, resulting overall in a high-quality diamond at a reasonable price. Of course, if you want that baby to sparkle like nobody's business, then you will want to slide down in Carat Weight, not Cut, and choose an FL, IF, or VVS grade in Clarity.

Which Diamond is Best for You?

In the end, the surest way to determine which diamond is best for you is to sit down with a diamond expert and examine, touch, and try on many diamonds of different Clarity grades. Most high-end jewelry stores will not carry low-quality diamonds. However, they may have a show set which will allow you to see the side-by-side difference that Clarity can have on a diamond's flash and brilliance. Take special note of the differences in price across the Clarity Scale, comparing cost to actual visible beauty. I bet you will find that stones of similar size and shape will appear very similar across the different Clarity grades, with significant variance in price. This will give you confidence that there truly is a lot of wiggle room on this particular scale in the 4Cs of Diamond Quality. As I've mentioned before, the more stones you can see and touch, the more confidence you will have when making a final decision. Purchasing a diamond is one of the most important events of a lifetime. We at EraGem are committed to ensuring that when you purchase a diamond, you are purchasing with understanding and confidence. *This list is slightly adapted from a list/table published by Lumera Diamonds on their website