Characteristics of the Aesthetic Jewelry Period

1870s Dress. Photo by Nicole, Wikimedia Commons. Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International.   The beginning of the Late Victorian Era, marking the beginning of a new millennium, is forever memorialized by the lighthearted, innovative, and brilliant designs of some of the greatest jewelry artists of all time. In her final years, Queen Victoria slowly emerged from her shell of mourning, beginning with her Diamond Jubilee in 1897. This celebration of her 60^th anniversary as Queen of the British Empire encouraged jewelers of the day to craft lighter, more whimsical and romantic baubles. During this time, diamonds began to compete with richly-colored sapphires, peridot, and spinels. The intricacy and detail which characterizes the entire Victorian Era flourished, with craftsman branching out into even more precious metals, such as silver, higher-carat gold, and platinum. Marked by an emphasis on artistry and craftsmanship, more time and care went into intricate settings and faceted gemstones. It is during this era that many of our modern designers made their mark; designers such as Tiffany & Co., who developed their legendary six-prong diamond setting during this period. Even today, this setting is a hallmark of many of their diamond engagement rings. It was during this period that Darwin’s innovative discoveries in the area of flora and fauna heavily influenced jewelry design. Gem-encrusted animals and insects became a standard fixture in jewelry trends. These intricate treasures are among my favorite pieces of this era. One such fashion trend was to use these tiny whimsical pins, fashioned into butterflies, houseflies, dragonflies, and all manner of beetles, to secure pieces of lace to the bodice of a dress.