Cartier's Trinity Motif

Marlene Dietrich in May 1933, seven years before Eric Remarque gave her the Cartier Trinity Lapis Bracelet. Her matchless personality and genderless glamour made her the perfect model for the emerging Cartier's Trinity motif.   Cartier's Trinity motif dates back to 1924, with its triple-colored rings of white, yellow, and rose gold. White for friendship, yellow for loyalty, and rose for true love {3}. Designed to represent the evolution of a relationship, Cartier's Trinity motif began with a series of interlocking finger rings in the 1920s {6}. This spectacular interpretation of the symbology of love endures today and remains one of Cartier's most popular collection. Not only the colors, but the interlocking nature of the motif send a powerful message about the cycles and stages of romantic love. A very unique rendering of Cartier's Trinity motif was realized in 1940 {1}. Erich Maria Remarque, a German writer known most notably for his classic novel All Quiet on the Western Front, commissioned Cartier to make an exquisite, one-of-a-kind bracelet for his friend and lover, actress Marlene Dietrich {1}. Featuring a single lapis lazuli bead, fashioned in what Sotheby's calls a "barrel-form," hangs in suspension on a band of interwoven 14k gold circular links in white, yellow, and rose color {5}. These links are intertwined in a beautiful design most assuredly in reference to Cartier's Trinity motif. Lisa Hubbard, co-chairman of Sotheby's International Jewelry Division, told InStyle that she believes this particular piece of lapis lazuli was one of the ancient stones purchased by Louis Cartier in the early 1920s, possibly from Egypt {3}. It is well known, according to Cartier biographer Hans Nadelhoffer, that Louis Cartier demonstrated a passion for Egyptian art, infusing many of his Art Deco designs with the stones of the ancient. Some of his favorite Egyptian stones were cornelian, turquoise, and lapis lazuli {4}. This bracelet, more than any other in Marlene Dietrich's extensive jewelry collection, seems to epitomize Marlene's strength, dignity, and genderless glamour. In December 2014, Sotheby's enjoyed the supreme privilege of offering Marlene Dietrich's stunning Cartier Trinity gold and lapis bracelet for sale. In their catalog, they called it a 14 Karat Tri-Colored Gold and Lapis Bracelet, Cartier {5}. The esteemed auction house reported that Eric Remarque chose the stone because Marlene was especially fond of lapis. Though Mr. Remarque had only known Marlene for a year at the time of the jewel's commission, it is evident that he knew firsthand the matchless style of his lady love. Not too dainty, not too bold, this Cartier Trinity bracelet proves the perfect statement piece for a woman of Marlene's distinction. The gorgeous jewel was estimated to sell for between $20,000 and $30,000 this past December. Of course, as is always the case, these estimates did not reflect that thermonuclear effect called star power. The bidding for this stunning Cartier bracelet soared well above the estimated temperatures of the low $20,000s, reaching a high of $179,000. To date, the jewel's new owner has chosen to remain anonymous. Time will tell whether another level of star power will have been added when this piece returns once again to the limelight at some future date. Do you have a fondness for Cartier's Trinity collection? Which is your favorite? ~Angela Magnotti Andrews, Staff Writer20

References

1. Becker, Vivienne. "The Jewels They Wore," Sotheby's, December 3, 2014.
2. Doulton, Maria. "Trinity de Cartier: an enduring symbol of love," The Jewellery Editor. Accessed April 17, 2015.
3. Fasel, Marion. "#RocksMyWorld: The Cartier Jewel of Screen Legend Goes on the Auction Block at Sotheby's," InStyle, December 4, 2014.
4. Nadelhoffer, Hans. Cartier. Chronicle Books, 2007.
5. Sotheby's. "14 Karat Tri-Color Gold and Lapis Lazuli Bracelet, Cartier." Accessed April 17, 2015.
6. "Trinity Collection," Harper's Bazaar. Accessed April 17, 2015.