Schlumberger Paillonne Bangle Bracelet Sold at Sotheby's

18k Gold and Red Enamel 'Paillonne' Bangle Bracelet
Image Copyright 2013 Sotheby's   On February 7, 2013, Sotheby's sold this exquisite 18k gold and red enamel paillonne bangle bracelet for $50,000. Signed Tiffany Schlumberger, Made in France, this is one of the more delectable jewels of the late Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987), one of Tiffany & Co.'s most lauded jewelry designers. Mr. Schlumberger and his business partner, Nicolas Bongard, were invited to join the ranks of the prestigious jewelry firm in 1956. They were honored as Vice Presidents and set up with a second-floor studio which was described in the New York Times as "an atmosphere combining boudoir satin and the hush of a boardroom" {2001}. With an endless supply of diamonds and gold at his disposal, Mr. Schlumberger's brilliance was unleashed, his whimsy and excellence a true fit with Tiffany's Art Nouveau heritage. Reviving the 19th century enameling technique called paillonne, Mr. Schlumberger created this stunning line of vibrant bangles. Paillonne is best suited for eliciting striking, textured color infused within sophisticated gold work. Frenchman Claudius Popelin wrote in 1886 that the use of gold foil in enameling affords "vivacity and a brilliance of the most splendid effect,' which is most evident in this beautiful bracelet. The complicated enameling process involves painstakingly cutting intricate shapes out of gold foil, placing them just so, and then dipping the whole into translucent colored enamel. This process is repeated up to 60 times for each bracelet. Excellence most certainly comes at a high price, which is why these alluring beauties are associated with only the wealthiest and most glamorous of American iconic women. The lucky few included Audrey Hepburn, Diana Vreeland, and Jackie Kennedy Onassis. In fact, Jackie O wore her favorite white enamel Schlumberger bracelet (and others) so frequently that the press began referring to them as 'Jackie bracelets'. Tiffany & Co. experienced a revived interest in these designer bangles in 2011, after modern-day glamour queens, Sarah Jessica Parker and Anne Hathaway were seen wearing them. After one glimpse of these breathtaking showstoppers, it is no wonder that Mr. Schlumberger is one of only four designers who earned the privilege of signing his own name on his Tiffany & Co. pieces. He shares this honor with Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso, and Frank Gehry.