History + Characteristics of the Oval Cut

  Words can hardly illuminate the magnificent beauty of this 6.63-carat, oval-cut natural blue sapphire mounted in a four-prong setting crafted entirely of platinum. The violet-blue stone is very transparent and so richly colored. This ring would serve beautifully as a stunning engagement ring or a bold cocktail ring. Though the history of oval-cut stones dates back to the 14th century, even the most famous of early oval cuts were crudely executed. Indeed, the cutter who so shabbily cut the first of the most famous oval-cut stones, the Koh-i-Noor, lost his head, likely through no fault of his own. These earliest cuts were rudimentary, made without the skill or tools afforded today's cutters, and they did very little to enhance the brilliance of the stones. It would be several centuries before lapidarists would possess the tools and mathematical skills required to allow for the modern fancy cuts, such as the round brilliant and its cousin the oval cut. Indeed, even as a modern cut the oval evolved over the lifespan of two Russian diamond cutters, Abraham Tolkowsky and Lazare Kaplan, and one mathematician, Marcel Tolkowsky. In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky perfected and published the first mathematical formula for the "ideal cut," which was swiftly adopted by his father, Abraham Tolkowsky. Their family firm became the first to cut commercial-grade diamonds to these ideal proportions. Working closely with his uncle and cousin, Lazare Kaplan continued to experiment with the ideal and round brilliant cuts. Soon becoming a master in his craft, he became legendary in the industry as the first, and one of the only, early 20th-century cutters who could skilfully salvage flawed diamonds. So talented was he that with a single blow, he could take a "worthless" diamond and cleave the stone into smaller flawless pieces. In 1957, Mr. Kaplan successfully applied his mastery to perfecting the first Modern Oval Cut. Memorialized by his company as Oval Elegance, this "technical achievement of note" {cited} secured Mr. Kaplan a place in the Jewelers Hall of Fame. This unique fancy cut features 58 facets which emit as much flashing fire as a modern round brilliant, but with a singular shape. Not only does the oval cut provide a classy alternative to the round brilliant, it also offers the added advantage of optimizing carat weight. An oval stone of a certain carat weight will actually appear visibly larger than a round stone of the same carat weight. Oval cuts also visibly elongate the fingers, often affording even those with short fingers the elegance of long piano hands. Oval cuts can vary in shape without diminishing their value. Some appear more squat and closer to round or pear shape while others appear more elongated like a marquise. Though the choice is merely subjective, the squatter ovals will appear softer to the eye, while the elongated ovals will appear crisp and sharp. Oval cuts hold their own in popularity for engagement rings. Indeed, they are growing in favor, as more and more brides opt for adding a personal flair to the typically traditional round brilliant solitaire. Add a touch of color, such as with this sapphire ring, and you have a slightly edgy engagement ring that exudes the timeless elegance of the classic solitaire engagement ring.