Giuliano Collectors to Find Treasure at Christie's Kensington Sale Tomorrow

Collectors have been salivating all season as the auction houses have pulled out one after another historical piece to whet their appetites. We've seen records broken for almost every kind of diamond, and millions of dollars have been raised for charity. While the season appears to be winding down, Christie's continues to offer tantalizing treats for those with a discerning eye. Tomorrow in Kensington, the distinguished auction house will draw a slightly different collecting crowd. This week's bidders will no doubt be more conservative and possibly even more selective. Antique pieces fill the catalog at prices well below what we've seen most of the year, but this does nothing to diminish their importance. Indeed, a stunning aquamarine and enamel necklace {Lot 26} is only one of several lots that will be true treasure for the collector of Renaissance Revival jewelry. This exquisite feminine jewel was made right around the turn of the 20th century by one of the most notable jewelry firms of the time, Guiliano of Picadilly, London. A sweeping double swag, composed of fancy links enameled in black and white, is crowned with a jeweled drop featuring a circular-cut pale aquamarine in a foiled closed-back mount with three crystals backed in pink foil. Five circular-cut pale sapphires serve as accents between the larger crystals. Signed C&AG (for Carlo and Alberto Giuliano), this necklace comes with its original maroon leather fitted case embossed C & A.Giuliano, 115 Picadilly, London. A master in enamelwork, Carlo Giuliano, Sr.'s signature combination was white and black, and his sons maintained the look he had established as uniquely Giuliano in this necklace made around 1900. In 1860, Sr. Giuliano brought his wife and sons from Naples, Italy, to set up a workshop on Firth Street in London. Some historians speculate he merely managed the shop for Fortunato Pio Castellani, who is known to have set up shop in London on the same street, and others assume Robert Phillips sponsored his move to London. Most historians agree that Sr. Giuliano must have apprenticed with Castellani in Naples, where he learned the ancient arts of granulation and enameling. However, aside from his early practice of selling his work through major houses, including Phillips, Hancocks, and Castellani, a cursory glance at the history alludes to a fiercely independent spirit throughout his time in London. By 1860, he had abandoned the archaeological style and had devoted himself entirely to the Renaissance for inspiration. Unlike many other Renaissance revivalists, he did not intend to duplicate the style, but rather to create a brand new look inspired by history. His light, colorful, and feminine pieces stood in stark contrast to the heavy jewels of the Victorian Mourning Era. Consequently, his pieces were a sensation right from the start. By 1874, he had opened his own retail shop on Picadilly, which attracted customers from both the Royal courts and the esteemed artists of London's Aesthetic crowd. He maintained his workshop on Firth and passed it along to his sons upon his death in 1895, which provides further evidence of an independent move to London, though not conclusive evidence. After his death, his sons maintained their father's faithful adherence to the standards of excellence in design and manufacture. The name Giuliani continued to be synonymous with the Renaissance Revival style, black-and-white enamel work, and excellence in craftsmanship that Carlo Giuliani, Sr., was known for during his lifetime. Along with this beautiful necklace, Christie's Kensington sale features a number of other pieces signed C & A.Giuliani. An enamel, diamond, and pearl necklace {Lot 29} is set in similar swag style, complete with black and white enamel work, but with daintier central enamelled openwork cartouches. The sale also features four unique Giuliano brooches, three of which were made by Carlo Giuliano, Sr., in the late 19th century. Indeed, if you collect Renaissance Revival jewelry or pieces specifically made by Giuliano, you will not want to miss tomorrow's sale at Christie's in Kensington.

*More About Photo: This spectacular amethyst necklace features natural stones and genuine diamonds set along the entire necklace. The trillion and pear stone stations are surrounded with genuine diamond halos and the entire necklace is crafted of solid 14k white gold.