The Great Chrysanthemum Diamond

The Great Chrysanthemum Diamond is one of the largest Fancy Brown Diamonds in the world. This Fancy Brown Diamond Brooch demonstrates the rich beauty of brown diamonds. Photo ©2015 EraGem Jewelry.   The Great Chrysanthemum Diamond is a stunning 104.16-carat Fancy Brown diamond cut in a pear shape. In its rough form, discovered in 1963 in South Africa, it weighed an astonishing 198.28 carats. It was purchased that same year by prominent New York jewelry designer, Julius Cohen. Julius Cohen began working in the diamond business as a teen in 1929 {HAG}. For thirteen years he apprenticed with his uncles at Oscar Heyman Brothers {3}. After learning techniques in the manufacture and sale of diamonds and gemstones, he left Oscar Heyman to work for Harry Winston. He oversaw the "Court of Jewels," exhibition for Harry Winston, touring around the world with the illustrious stones in Mr. Winston's treasury {11}. In 1956, Julius Cohen launched his own in New York City. His was a singular approach to client services. Though he opened a salon and workshop on East 53rd, and later on Madison Avenue, Mr. Cohen primarily serviced his clients in the privacy of their own homes. In 1963, Mr. Cohen purchased the rough diamond, which was a rich honey color in its most natural state. He brought it to S. & M. Kaufman, who cut it into a pear shape with 189 facets. The cutting process revealed the rich browns now associated with the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond. I am on the hunt for information about S. & M. Kaufman. I have found several references to an S. M. Kaufman, who was a registered buyer in the Jeweler's Review in 1899 and in the Crockery and Glass Journal in 1922. There is also a company called S & M Kaufman registered in New York as jewelers; however, merchant directory listings claim the company was founded in 1980. New York also hosts Allison-Kaufman, which was established in 1920. I am waiting for return calls from the owners to help establish which, if any, of these firms fashioned the beautiful Chrysanthemum Diamond. When I hear back, I will update this article. After the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond was cut, it was mounted as the central pendant for a stunning diamond necklace designed by Julius Cohen. This necklace features 410 oval and marquise-shaped white diamonds {2}. This rich golden brown diamond pendant dazzles the eye with overtones of sienna and burnt orange, colors so reminiscent of the gorgeous blooms of chrysanthemum that they inspired its name {2}. In 1965, the Great Chrysanthemum was exhibited in the Tucson Gem and Mineral Society Show {1}. It was included in a lavish diamond display sponsored by Newton Pfeffer. The entirety of this display, valued at upwards of $2 million, was said to have been taken by armored car to a nearby vault every night during the show  {1}. On a date not specified, Julius Cohen sold the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond to a private collector {10}. The diamond was also exhibited in 1971 at the Kimberley Centenary Exhibition and in 1977 at the Diamond Pavilion in Johannesburg {2}. At some point after this show, the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond became part of the collection of the esteemed British Court jewelers Garrard's of London {Khuri}. In 2007, Garrard's opened their United States flagship store in Beverly Hills, California. Visitors to Rodeo Drive had the supreme privilege of viewing the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond on display that summer {9}. Garrard's describes themselves as the oldest jewelry house in the world, having serviced the royal family of Great Britain since 1735. According to a singular website dedicated to the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond, Garrard's no longer owns the diamond. I have been able to verify that Garrard's no longer owns any stores in the US, though I have not received a reply from them as to whether they currently own the diamond. Their Rodeo Drive location is now occupied by esteemed jewelry designer Stephen Webster. The writers of the diamond's website claim that the original private collector reacquired the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond and maintains ownership to date {6}.

References

1. Anonymous. "Mineralogical Record, suppl. 50-Year History of the Tucson Show," Tucson Gem & Mineral Society, 2004, pp. 32-34.
2. Balfour, Ian. Famous Diamonds. London: Christie's, 2000.
3. Burgum, Jill and Becky Dirtling and Andrea Rubenkoenig, eds. Exquisite Jewelry & Timepices. Texas: Heritage Auction Galleries, 2006.
4. Garrard Brochure, 2013-2014.
5. Great Chrysanthemum, The. "A Mysterious Enigma." Accessed March 2015.
6. Great Chrysanthemum, The. "An Amazing and Significant Piece of History." Accessed March 2015.
7. Great Chrysanthemum, The. "Mystery of the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond." Accessed March 2015.
8. Julius Cohen. "About Our Founder." Accessed March 2015.
9. Khuri, Elizabeth. "Shopping; The List; Blanche DuBois Fantasy," Los Angeles Times, July 15, 2007, p. 11.
10. Leibish. "The Great Chrysanthemum Diamond," Leibish Blog, November 13, 2011.
11. Saxon, Wolfgang. "Julius Cohen, 81; Jewelry Designer Who Won Awards," The New York Times Obituaries, July 19, 1995.
12. Thomspon, Ryan. "The Great Chrysanthemum," Famous Diamonds website. Accessed March 2015.

*I offer my gratitude to Peggy Tsiamis from the GIA library for her help in confirming many of the details about the early history of the Great Chrysanthemum Diamond.