Floral Brooch by Catherine Sauvage. Photo Courtesy of Luxeford Hong Kong Ltd.

Mounted en tremblant, a 57.90-carat, pear-cut aquamarine carpel sets the tone for this icy blue, jeweled flower brooch designed by preeminent German jeweler, Catherine Sauvage. With petals encrusted with light blue sapphires and colorless diamonds, and a stem paved in brown diamonds, this lovely brooch was hand crafted under the watchful eye of its meticulous designer.

Catherine Sauvage’s roots run deep in the Hahn family, a distinguished German gem-trading family boasting over 100 years of industry experience. After working alongside her husband for many years, her passion for design eventually spurred her to open her own design studio and showroom in Düsseldorf’s chic fashion center in 2002.

The accomplished designer has spent the last decade ensuring that every piece that leaves her atelier is a replete with German precision, French passion, and her own personal stamp of elegance. Her extravagant designs feature sinuous lines, lavish color, and hand-tooled goldwork. Her work is a must-see for any serious jewelry collector.

And see it, you can…if you’re planning a visit to Hong Kong this coming week.

Ms. Sauvage’s stunning flower brooch will be on display as part of Luxeford’s Fine Jewelry pre-sale exhibition, being held in the intimate setting of the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel from May 19th through May 22nd. This exhibition promises to thrill any jewelry enthusiast.

With the natural beauty of Victoria Harbour in the background, visitors will feast their eyes upon over 450 sensational jewels, including a pair of elegant sapphire and diamond earrings made by Harry Winston, a magnificent acorn brooch by Tiffany & Co., and Wallace Chan’s exquisite “Guanyin” statue.

The exhibit will culminate in a live auction on May 22, 2013, at 2pm. For further details, or to browse Luxeford’s online catalog, we invite you to visit their website.

Carey Mulligan in Tiffany. Matt Hart/Warner Bros. via AP. Photo Source: The Washington Post.

Nick: You can’t repeat the past.
Gatsby: You can’t repeat the past?
Nick: No.
Gatsby: Why of course you can. Of course you can.

Perhaps you really can’t recreate the past, but Baz Luhrman, Catherine Martin, and top executives at Tiffany & Co. have done their best to reinvent it with the pulse-pounding party scenes and the stunning jewelry featured in the newly released movie, The Great Gatsby.

“Catherine Martin and Baz Luhrman first came to Tiffany almost two years ago…with the assumption, based on the role that we played in New York at that time, that perhaps there would be something…they could discover that would inspire their work within the movie,” says Jon King, Executive Vice President of Tiffany & Co.

They were not disappointed. Tiffany & Co. generously released their extensive 1920s archives to the Hollywood pair, who partnered with Tiffany design teams to invent “things completely from scratch” {cited}.

If there wasn’t an appropriate piece in their archival inventory, which was the case for the pearl and diamond fan-shaped hat pin worn in one scene by actress Elizabeth Debicki (“Jordan Baker”), the teams set to work recreating pieces from actual Tiffany drawings from the 1920s.

This was the case for Daisy’s Savoy Headband and the pearl and diamond hand jewelry featured in the above photo. The headband features freshwater cultured pearls and round brilliant diamonds (totaling 25.04 carats) set in pristine platinum. The beautiful flower is detachable and can be worn as a brooch.

“I’ve never worn jewelry like the jewelry that we’re using from Tiffany’s….I had these rings that were attached to pearls that came around, and they were so delicate….You know that you’re wearing something very beautiful and something very valuable,” says Carey Mulligan. “I think it changes the way that you move and the way that you carry yourself” {cited}.

The partnership with Tiffany & Co. represents a toast to the Spirit of the 20s, with its modernity, its elegance, its over-the-top resplendence. Tiffany Diamonds continue to effuse the alluring sophistication that exemplifies the glamorous American scene. Truly, this writer can’t imagine The Great Gatsby without the dazzle of Tiffany jewels.

Visit our Facebook page and let us know which of Tiffany’s #Gatsby-inspired pieces are your faves.

Type IIa Diamond Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo copyright 2013 Bonham’s 1793.

This stunning platinum ring features a fancy light pinkish-orange, certified type IIa diamond center stone with two trilliant cut natural white diamond accent stones. Made by Van Cleef & Arpels, this ring is expected to sell for up to $840,000 at Bonham 1793′s upcoming Fine Jewelry & Jadeite sale in Hong Kong.

Listed in their catalog as “an important coloured diamond” ring, the importance of this jewel lies primarily in the classification of its 11.47-carat center stone as a type IIa fancy colored diamond. The majority of diamonds in the market are classified type Ia, which indicates the presence of up to 0.3% nitrogen in the crystal structure.

Type IIa diamonds, which are nearly devoid of impurities, account for only 1-2% of marketable stones, making them extremely desirable to collectors. The fancy colored diamonds, which attain their color through what scientists call “plastic deformations,” pose a geologic mystery that scientists at the Naval Research Laboratory are still trying to solve. Their alluring colors and mysterious nature add further intrigue to serious diamond enthusiasts and collectors.

Indeed, just last month, Christie’s sold a rare type IIa fancy pink diamond, also previously owned by Van Cleef & Arpels, called The Princie, for nearly $40 million dollars. While this particular stone does not appear to have the same historical significance as the lauded Princie diamond, it is still a one-of-a-kind piece, no less stunning in its rarity and beauty and no less significant as an investment.

This magnificent designer ring goes to auction on May 25, 2013, in Hong Kong, alongside over 175 other noteworthy fine jewels, including several other stunning jewels made by Van Cleef & Arpels, and several early 20th century pieces from other top designers, such as Tiffany and Cartier.

Interested parties can find more information on Bonham’s website.

A Rainbow of Trilliant-Cut Gemstones on Display at the GIA Musuem. Photo by Robert Weldon, Courtesy of Roz & Gene Meieran Collection. Copyright 2002-2013 GIA Museum.

Triangles bear some of the richest symbolism of all geometric shapes. Point-up, they represent aspiration, male energies, fire, the sun, and stability. Point-down, they represent female energies, the moon, water, grace, and the creative life-force of the womb.

The Trilliant Cut, based on the shape of a triangle and thereby replete with the symbolism afforded all triangles, is one of the most exquisite fancy cuts for gemstones. Developed in the early 1900s by Joseph and Abraham Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, the Trilliant Cut was tradmarked in 1962 by the Henry Meyer Diamond Company of New York.

Made with either 31 or 50 facets, a trilliant-cut gemstone is usually shaped with equivalent sides featuring straight edges, though a curved version is sometimes used. Most often these stones, which when cut to the correct depth display excellent fire, are used as accent stones, though a large one would make a beautiful central stone.

On display in the Atrium, just as you walk through the doors of The GIA Museum in Carlsbad, California, visitors can view 100 trilliant-cut gemstones. Ranging in size from a demure 7 carats to a gargantuan 140-carat stone, these brilliant gemstones represent gem species of nearly every color on the spectrum, including the rich blue of tanzanite, the verdant green of emerald, and the oranges, pinks, reds, and blues of topaz.

Loose and on display, like bits of beautiful eye candy, these scintillating triangular gemstones are sure to impress even the youngest member of your party. The GIA Museum is dedicated to strengthening awareness of gems, jewelry, and gemology through exhibits and programs that educate and inspire. To that end, the museum offers free guided tours to the public, though visitors must register by phone or email at least 24 hours in advance.

Museum guests will experience first-hand the Trilliant Exhibition, as well as several concurrent exhibitions, including Aluminati: Students to Stars, Tourmaline Carvings, Zoltan David Jewelry, and more. The museum also has on display several photographic exhibits documenting different aspects of gemological pursuits, as well as the comprehensive mineral and gem material collection of Edward J Gübelin and an an exhibit featuring antique diamond cutting instruments.

The Museum is part of the extensive 18-acre Robert Mouawad Campus, home of the Gemological Institute of America Headquarters. The campus also includes the GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory, the G. Robert Crowningshield Research Center, and the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center.

If classes are in session, your tour will include an eye-witness view of future gemologists and jewelry designers perfecting their craft. Visitors also have full access to the library, which boasts 38,000 books, international journals, photos, videos, and the Cartier Rare Book Collection. Truly, the GIA Museum is a treasure trove for anyone with a penchant for shiny bling. As one happy visitor declared, “Considering the whole thing was free, you can’t afford to miss this unique experience” {cited}.

For more information, or to schedule your visit, you will find all the information you need on the GIA website.

This solid platinum estate engagement ring features a stunning 1-carat central round brilliant diamond set in a gorgeous four-prong mounting. Along the shank, 24 princess-cut diamonds are embedded side-by-side in an invisible setting.

Developed in France in the mid-1800s, the invisible setting gives the appearance of a floating gemstone mosaic. Set side by side, the stones are notched by expert jewelers and snapped into place within a wire framework hidden beneath the surface of the mounting. The effect is dazzling, as the light is free to emit greater radiance across unhindered stones.

In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels, the famed Paris maison, patented their exclusive invisible setting, called the Mystery Setting™. The Mystery Setting™ is most often used to create daring color, with sapphires, rubies, and emeralds set in VC&A’s larger showstopping pieces, such as in their beautiful flower brooches, stunning necklaces and bracelets, and ornate earrings.

In bridal jewelry, the invisible setting is used in two ways. First, as seen in the pictured engagement ring, as a sensational way to showcase princess- or baguette-cut accent stones. Second, the invisible setting allows several smaller diamonds to appear as one large diamond, as seen in this lovely diamond and yellow sapphire halo ring.

Invisible settings are one of the most difficult mountings to make, and they are one of the most susceptible to potential loss of stones. The delicacy of this mounting makes it a poor choice for brides who work regularly with tools or heavy equipment. You will want to remove an invisible set ring before working in the garden, doing heavy housework, or using tools, especially hammers. If your stones do loosen or pop out, be sure to choose an expert jeweler with experience in invisible settings to examine and repair your ring.

Of course, it is this same delicacy that makes an invisible set engagement ring a most stunning choice for the bride who wants sophisticated lines and lots of sparkle. Be sure that you purchase your ring from a reputable dealer in engagement rings, and examine it carefully with your fingers. The surface should be smooth and even. If there are any rough surfaces or if any of the stones are uneven, keep looking. Your perfect engagement ring will be able to withstand the tests of time, so don’t settle for poor construction.

A solid platinum mounting with diamond-paved shanks houses this magnificent natural blue sapphire set in place by Bergio’s classic corner-prong setting. Triangular cuts emphasize the  beautiful cut of this 1.35-carat oval-cut blue sapphire, while at the same time allowing maximum light to spark off the brilliant stone.

Once again, Bergio delivers timeless elegance with a contemporary edge. Berge Abajian, CEO and Head Designer of Bergio, strives to envision the woman who will one day wear his rings. Class, sophistication, and elegance are her constant companions. Her style is uniquely hers, and she is just as likely to choose a romantic blue sapphire as a traditional white diamond for her engagement ring.

Perhaps her dress will hearken back to bygone days–the A-lines and mermaid gowns of the 1930s and 1940s, but with a contemporary flare. Whatever she chooses, a Bergio bride is the ultimate art form.

Just as she strives for perfection in preparing for her wedding, the team at Bergio strives to create a perfect piece of “jewelry that reflects all the beauty and vitality a woman possesses” {cited}. With every ring, they promise to deliver a creation of perfect beauty, seamlessly blending classic elegance with subtle flair, that will enhance a woman’s allure without overpowering her.

If you are a Bergio bride, then this gorgeous blue sapphire ring, with its stunning platinum lines and its classic touch of elegance, may be just the ring for you.

Fashion Designer Carolina Herrera. Photo by Christopher Peterson.

A single weighty cabochon emerald hangs elegantly from a fluted cup attached to six round brilliant diamonds. The emerald drop is further enhanced by a line of tiny diamonds embedded directly into the emerald. How do they do that??

Decidedly chic, these stunning earrings epitomize the effortless elegance of the woman who wears them. The beautiful and sophisticated Carolina Herrera, credited with creating some of the most sensationally classic fashions of the past four decades, has been celebrated for her own sense of style nearly as often as those who wear her designs.

Her classic uniform of white blouse and tailored slacks or skirts, paired with earrings fashioned of pearls or diamonds/emeralds, is as iconic as Jackie O’s uniform of tailored suit dresses, pillbox hats, and strings of natural pearls.

It is Mrs. Herrera’s effortless grace, her classy style, and her sophisticated attention to detail that have secured her a place among the world’s best dressed, including induction into the Fashion Hall of Fame in 1981 and a banner spot on Elle Magazine’s Ten Most Elegant Women in the World.

As I peruse the many stunning images of one of New York’s most stylish women, I am left with only one question: Who made these delectable earrings?

Perhaps they were designed by Mimi So, an up-and-coming jewelry designer on whose board of directors Mrs. Herrera sits. Or perhaps they were designed by internationally acclaimed Avakian, who offer some beautiful emerald tassel earrings similar to the ones Mrs. Herrera wore to the 2012 Vanity Fair Oscars Party.

Mrs. Herrera clearly favored Van Cleef & Arpels in her early days, as the rumor of her exchange with Andy Warhol demonstrates, and I’m sure the House of Cartier has earned their fair share of her business. These earrings definitely emit a ring of classic Cartier or VC&A. Alas, so far this writer has not been able to solve the mystery.

Do you know who made them? Visit our Facebook page and leave us a comment if you do.

‘Guanyin’ by Wallace Chan. Photo Courtesy of Luxeford Hong Kong Ltd.

“The Goddess of Mercy ‘Guanyin’ is depicted sprinkling the potion of salvation in a sinuous stream which continues in intaglio as the potion pours onto the crystal base, proceeding to flow seamlessly into the world. She is dressed in a windswept robe decorated with bamboo leaves, her hair in a chignon, and decked with a crown embellished with the Buddha sitting serenely in the clouds.”

So reads the catalog entry for the upcoming sale hosted by Luxeford Hong Kong, Ltd. on May 22, 2013. The pride felt in celebrating Hong Kong’s own Wallace Chan is palpable, from the pages of their catalog to the enthusiasm of their staff’s generous response to this writer’s inquiries.

And it is no wonder. Mr. Chan’s pursuit of art in jewelry has made a stirring impact on the jewelry industry. After viewing image after image of his astonishing sculptures and jewels, I wrote a note to myself: “They are so haunting; so exquisite it hurts.”

Mr. Chan’s approach to crafting jewelry is as exquisite as his pieces. He strives for the perfection of every piece he envisions. Each piece is crafted by his own hands, often with gems set upon gems, held in place by cutting-edge techniques forged in his own workshop after many hours of meticulous study.

At many points along the way Mr. Chan has met with obstacles–whether lacking the proper tools or or techniques to perfect his work. At these times, while he has been known to toss a piece out and start over again, he has just as often learned a whole new skill set in order to give birth to his stunning visions. At one point, he studied mechanical engineering in order to make his own tools. At another point, he developed a brand new cutting technique, dubbed the “Wallace Cut”. He also devoted a whole season of his life to coaxing the secrets out of titanium, a metal he now uses in nearly every piece he makes.

Having immersed himself in the pursuit of harnessing the varied aspects of light and reflection, he has become so adept in the techniques of jewelry design that he is now able to bend the rules in order to “create freely and set new standards”–the mark of a true master {cited}. Where most jewelers use gold or silver to set gemstones in place, close inspection of Mr. Chan’s masterpieces reveal prongs of diamonds or emeralds holding sapphires, rubies, aquamarines, or other richly-colored gemstones in place.

With every piece, every technique, Mr. Chan tells a story of Chinese Zen. This statue of Guanyin, pouring forth the waters of salvation in her white robes, stands as a symbol of mercy, compassion, salvation, and enlightenment. She is favored in Chinese lore as the champion of the people, having renounced her own reward for enlightenment (Nirvana) in order to “teach and transform living beings” {cited}. She listens attentively to the cries of the world.

Just as her male counterpart, Avalokitesvara, “granted compassion wondrous as a great cloud, pouring spiritual rain like nectar, quenching all the flames of distress” {cited}, Guanyin pours out compassion and mercy upon those she visits, relieving their suffering, restoring peace and security, eliciting joy and contemplation, and thereby opening their minds to receiving the truth of enlightenment.

Sculpted out of rock crystal in the very early stages of Mr. Chan’s artistic endeavor, this breathtaking statue of Guanyin tells a beautiful story of love, compassion, and mercy with its fluid lines and ethereal way of capturing the light.

If you’re planning a trip to Hong Kong, I invite you to stop by the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel from May 19-May 22, where the statue will be on display in boardrooms 5 and 6, with other magnificent treasures offered by Luxeford in their upcoming Fine Jewels sale. And for all serious collectors, be sure to join in the bidding on May 22 at 2pm. You will find more information on Luxeford’s website.

“Horizontal” by Kara Ross. Photo credit: GIA Museum on Pinterest.

The raw crystals of this exquisite green dioptase dynamically extrude from its 18k yellow gold mounting in much the same manner it must have jutted out of its original brownish quartzite host. GIA graduate, Kara Ross, added a touch of glitter with a sprinkling of pavé diamonds, perhaps in honor of the carbonate crystals that often grow alongside dioptase in its natural form.

Ms. Ross is the first of a group of GIA alumni who will be honored with their own exhibitions at the GIA Museum in Carslbad, California. The museum’s latest series, “Aluminati: Students to Stars,” will showcase the far-reaching successes of their many talented graduates.

Kicking the series off with a bang, the bold and unique styles of Kara Ross will inspire and impress a public audience in the same way the cutting-edge designer has inspired and impressed a celebrity audience, including actresses Anne Hathaway, Kate Hudson, and Cameron Diaz, as well as U.S. First Lady Michelle Obama.

A highlight of the exhibition, Mrs. Obama’s custom “Shirt Cuff” bracelet, made from amethyst crystals, sterling silver, and the wood of a fallen White House magnolia tree, will be on display alongside the matching earrings Ms. Ross made for the fashion-forward First Lady. The bracelet and earrings demonstrate Ms. Ross’s unique ability to transform natural materials into astonishing works of art.

Ms. Ross got her start in jewelry design in her early teens. To commemorate a family safari in Africa, her parents encouraged their daughter to design and fashion a ring with the native tourmaline she chose. Inspired by downtown Philadelphia’s Jeweler’s Row, Ms. Ross created a ring of 18k gold and diamonds in which to mount the square-cut tourmaline.

This early start at creating jewelry marked her indelibly, and her passionate pursuit of designing with gemstones earned her the highest credential given by the GIA, a GIA Graduate Gemologist diploma. As a GIA Gemologist, Ms. Ross is a highly trained expert in diamonds and colored gemstones.

“Through the GIA, I developed my passion and knowledge for gemstones, and these inform and enhance all the designs I create today,” Ms. Ross told Jeff Miller of Rapaport Auctions. Her nearly-organic rendering of the green dioptase in the stunning ring pictured above demonstrates her statement. Visitors can see the ring, named “Horizontal” by the designer, as well as Mrs. Obama’s “Shirt Cuff” bracelet, and many more designs by the celebrated designer in the GIA Museum atrium.

According to the GIA Museum’s website, Ms. Ross’s work will be on display through October 2013. For a free guided tour, visitors must call ahead to make an appointment. To schedule a tour, call 800-421-7250, ext. 4116.

FBI Badge, circa 1935. Photo Credit: Greater Cincinnati Police Museum.

The year is 1924, and the jewel in question is a gift from Annie to her son, J. Edgar Hoover. It is a “small star sapphire ring.” {1} According to Clint Eastwood’s film, J. Edgar, the ring was made from platinum and set with six diamonds and a star sapphire. Upon J. Edgar’s death, on this day in 1972, Mr. Hoover bequeathed the ring and two cuff links to John Edgar Nichols, son of Mr. Hoover’s faithful publicist, Louis Nichols.

Mr. Hoover also willed his platinum watch with a white gold wristband to his other namesake, John Edgar Ruch, son of the FBI Director’s first ghostwriter, George Ruch. {2} In pictures of Mr. Hoover, his customary uniform of suit and tie is often minimally ornamented with a few choice of personal ornaments, most distinctly a ring which he wears on his left ring finger, a watch and/or bracelet he wears most frequently on his left wrist, and on at least one occasion a small lapel pin. Unseen in the photographs would be the conventional cuff links, likely FBI issue, though he may have had a few personalized pairs.

His biographers credit it him with affection and generosity, reporting that he often bought jewelry for his mother. However, there is scant record of which jewelers he favored, though several reports indicate that he was friends with Paul Flato, renowned “Jeweler to the Stars”.

It is likely that the lapel pin was associated with one of the many fraternal organizations he belonged to, either the Shriners, the Masons, or even the FBI. According to public records, the declared value of his personal property at the time of his death, including jewelry, books, antiques, and other household effects, was at minimum $70,000, with some indications that this was a very low estimate.

While the trail on his personal jewelry seems to dry up at this point, there is one piece of ornamentation that J. Edgar Hoover had with him at all times–his FBI badge. His first would have been issued in 1917. The pattern for this initial badge was a miniature ornate shield, branded “US” in the center, which was encircled by a banner reading “Bureau of Investigation/Justice Department”.

In May 1927, three years after Mr. Hoover was promoted to Director of the Bureau, a new badge style was issued. This one featured a flat miniature shield crested by an eagle. In the center of the shield, between the branded letters “U” and “S”, Lady Justice (the blindfolded Greek goddess Dike) holds the scales of justice and her double-edged sword, symbolizing the power of reason and justice. In banner style, the words “Bureau of Investigation” and “Department of Justice” border the edges.

After the 1927 issuance, two different variations of this badge style were adopted. In 1934, they increased the size of the badge and cast it with a slight curvature. And, in 1935, the present style was adopted which demonstrates a more androgynous Lady/Lord Justice. The curvature of the badge is more pronounced, and the banner now reads “Federal Bureau of Investigation”, reflecting the final name change for the agency.

The first 1000 of these badges were manufactured in Attleboro, Massachusetts by the Robbins Company. Numbered 1 to 1000, these first official FBI badges are still in circulation. When retiring agents turn them in they are typically reissued to new agents. However, one of these original FBI badges will not find its way in the hands of a rookie agent.

Badge No. 1, issued in 1935 to first-in-command, Director J. Edgar Hoover, will soon take its place among over 2,000 items from the late Director’s estate at the National Law Enforcement Museum in Washington, DC. Scheduled to open in 2015, the museum promises to “tell the story of Director Hoover and the FBI like no one has been able to tell it before.” {cited}

Notes
1. Gentry, Curt. J. Edgar Hoover. New York: W.W. Norton & Company Ltd., 1991.
2. Ibid.