Designer Spotlight: Alex Sepkus

Crinkled Silk Bracelet by Alex Sepkus. Photo © 2013 EraGem Jewelry. Beautifully textured 18k yellow gold has been meticulously sculpted to form granulated triangular links which fit together like puzzle pieces and elicit the look and feel of crinkled silk. The detailing is exquisite, and the organic sprinkling of several bezel-set round brilliant diamonds adds dazzling whimsy. True to form, designer Alex Sepkus put as much attention into the backside of this piece as to the front. A unique link-chain mesh, intricately wrought in 18k gold, adds security and interest. The sleek design with its distinctive lines and patterns is perfect for the modern woman who enjoys sophisticated craftsmanship and the mystery of a piece endowed with as much complexity as her own soul.

Alex Sepkus Stands Apart

Even in the Big Apple, in a crowd of top-notch jewelry designers, Alex Sepkus stands apart. His process begins in the depths of his imagination, a realm from which unique designs present themselves to a man who strives "to be satisfied with every detail" {cited: kevinmain}. A true artist, Mr. Sepkus shies away from fads and trends, setting his own rhythm and establishing his own sense of style. "I only want to make jewelry that I like," he told Jennifer Heebner of JCK Luxury. Though he used to work from sketches, he abandoned the sometimes restricting process of following a pattern and now simply captures the vision in his mind before allowing his hands to intuitively create what he sees. "Sometimes, I am surprised at what comes out," the artist says {alexsepkus.com}.

'Influenced by Nothing Specific'

He claims he is "influenced by nothing specific" {alexsepkus.com}. Rather, Mr. Sepkus allows portions from the whole of life's rich sensual experiences to wash over him and inform his aesthetic, whether it be a crumbling stone pathway, a mosaic floor, a beautiful arpeggio, or a line of fluid poetry. Long hours spent reading, coupled with his extensive travels, informs his celebrated intellect and humor, and he pulls from his own essence to round out whatever pleasure he derives from the outside world. He told Town & Country that he extracts a fair amount of inspiration from the adventure of simply applying himself to his art. His practice is thoroughly intuitive, borne out of a passion for creative expression and a lifetime spent mastering the simple techniques of a goldsmith--"I carve wax. I engrave. I hammer. Not very complex techniques--it's all a matter of precision and design" {alexsepkus.com}.

An Element of Surprise

Indeed, every one of his pieces is a study in precision and design. Working on one square inch at a time under a microscope, with a style uniquely his own, he uses a few hand tools to shape and coax each tiny grain of gold into alignment with the whole of the vision. Each piece is carefully crafted by hand with an attention to detail that defies words. An Alex Sepkus jewel is not just an object of beauty, but also an expression, a feeling, an experience. His pieces are infused with texture, both real and implied, and like a work of poetry or literature, they haunt you long after you've "read" them the first time. They draw you in deeper, inviting a closer look here, a second  glance there. His designs are meant to evoke images of beauty, memories and feelings of nostalgia that bring a warm feeling to the innards and a smile to the face. Whimsical details, such as a smattering of asymmetrically placed gemstones or a tiny crab or lobster, belie the exacting detail required to execute such exquisite creations. "It's almost as if he's winking at you, sharing with a smile that there is no rhyme or reason," says friend and designer, Stephen Webster. "At first glance, his pieces can seem classic, but every time you look at them, you continue to discover another detail, an element of surprise. And, all of a sudden, the pieces take on a totally different feeling: sometimes eclectic, sometimes humorous, most often brilliant in their execution" {cited: InDesign}.

A Unique Genius

Alex Sepkus began his artistic career as a sculptor and engraver in Soviet Lithuania at a time when it was illegal for artisans to work in gold. Working in ivory, wood, and stones, he perfected his sculpting skills and also learned the skills of a painter and an enameler. The longer he worked in his native country, the smaller his pieces became until he was working almost entirely under a microscope. "I used to escape into , sculpting and painting tiny figures or writing poems in tiny letters on a ring or a bracelet" {cited: Town & Country}. The larger world around him--fraught with tension, suppression, and oppression--would grow dim as he gave himself over to the fastidious labor of his unique expression. As a boy, Alex's father, an architect, taught him calligraphy and drawing, and when he came of age he left home to begin courses in industrial design at the Vilnius Academy of Fine Arts. Disinterested in the course his life was taking, he allowed his restlessness to conduct him toward the scant jewelry classes offered at his school. "We were taught very little on the subject...so, I read books and figured out obscure technologies, many of which jewelers didn't actually use" {cited: Bernstein}. The limitations of his home country forged within him a unique genius, allowing him the freedom to experimentally apply techniques usually reserved for other disciplines to the creation of jewelry. He continues to employ sculptural and painting techniques to his work today, and his unique approach has placed him in a class of his own, in both his native land and his adopted country, the US.

The Jewelry Whisperer

Jim Rosenheim, CEO of Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, DC, compares Alex's jewels to the old adage that arresting someone's attention with a whisper is far more effective than shouting. " people see Alex's jewelry, they are drawn in closer and closer. Alex is a whisperer among the designers" {alexsepkus.com}. Alex Sepkus has literally carved a niche for himself that no one can replicate. Intriguing, joyous, romantic, richly decorated. These are just a few words that describe the essence of his work. The gorgeous bracelet pictured above is a pristine example of his sensuous and fastidious attention to detail. In this case his inspiration is obvious--the look and feel of crinkled silk; however, his execution is ingenious. While the substance of the piece is a bit weightier than the sensuous fabric, its inspiration is evident in the silky feel of smooth metal against skin and the detailed texture of every groove and granulated bead. And who knows what surprises lie hidden on the surface? This element of wonder alone is worth the investment! But don't stop there. The investment value of an Alex Sepkus ornament cannot be understated. An expert at Christie's told Alex's business partner that "people will be fighting for these pieces at auction" in about 50 years {cited: Teisch}. EraGem Jewelry invites you to make an investment that will pay you back in dividends. Alex Sepkus's 'Crinkled Silk' bracelet will tickle your senses and your fancy. It will surprise you, enchant you, and thrill you. To own Alex Sepkus is to be marked by distinctive beauty and true individuality, both of which are absolutely timeless.

Bibliography

1. "Intellectual, The," JCK Luxury, Summer 2008, p. 36.
2. Alex Sepkus. "About Alex Sepkus." Accessed October 10, 2013. alexsepkus.com.
3. Bernstein, Beth. "Fan Club: Alex Sepkus Selected by Stephen Webster," Design, June 2008, p. 26.
4. Kevin Main Jewelry. "Alex Sepkus." Accessed October 10, 2013. http://www.kevinmain.com/designers/alex-sepkus.
5. Morgan, Joanne. "Stylish Artists," Vail Valley, Winter 2007.
6. "Promotion: Alex Sepkus (Editorial)," Town & Country, June 2009.
7. Teisch, Jessica. "The Intricacies of the ABCs," The Jewelry Book (Novell Design Studio), date unknown.