Verdura gemstone, enamel and silver "Maltese Cross" cuffs, circa 1930, made for Coco Chanel. Photo Copyright David Behl, courtesy Verdura. Photo source: Rapaport.
It all started in 1925, when Linda and Cole Porter introduced Fulco di Verdura to their friend, Coco Chanel. Enamored with the Duke's keen eye for design, Chanel employed him to create a whole new line of textiles for her.
Not only did she favor his designs, but Ms. Chanel also favored him as escort to the various parties she attended. His delicious taste in jewelry and keen eye for style naturally evolved into a brand new line of jewelry: Verdura for Chanel. {cited}
Together, the two set out on excursions around the world to view exhibitions and visit galleries in search of inspiration. On one such visit to the Church of San Vitale in Ravenna, the Maltese Cross motifs for which Verdura became famous were born.
In the elaborate Byzantine mosaics, which filled the cathedral, Verdura found his sweet spot. Upon returning home, he set to work creating this pair of cuffs which would become the signature choice of not one, but two extremely influential women.
Coco Chanel, of course, became the first to own the gemstone and white-enameled silver pair of Maltese Cross cuffs. True to form, these Verdura bracelets, which appear more like armor than fine jewelry, blended precious and semi-precious gemstones and metal mixed with enamels in a way that no one had yet dared to do.
Within the year, Diana Vreeland, one of Coco's dearest friends, had adopted the bold look as her own, later adding her own flair with Kenneth Jay Lane's black-and-white enamel bracelets "with jewels mounted on the white cuff, and reversed out on the black." {1}
These two remarkable women, wearing the bold and magnificent work of a cutting-edge jewelry designer, influenced a whole new trend in powerful jewelry for the new woman of the 20th century. This trend for wearing large, matching cuffs continues into the 21st century on the runway, the stage, and on screen.
Note
1. Stuart, Amanda Mackenzie. "Empress of Fashion: A Life of Diana Vreeland." London: HarperCollins, 2012, p. 178. 11 years ago
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